CLASS ACT STAYS AROUND BECAUSE OF FOOD, SERVICE
Robert Tolf, Staff WriterSUN-SENTINEL
In the here-today-gone-tomorrow restaurant world of South Florida, 18 years is close to an eternity. But that's the mark attained by a diligent practitioner of the fine art of cuisine, who took over a simple breakfast-and- lunch place back in 1969.
Then it was known as Mickey's Diner and it consisted of a counter and implements. Such origins today are virtually impossible to trace, so totally transformed -- and expanded -- is the gem that for years has been known as Vittorio.
The one-time short-order cook has poured profits back into his little domain and in the process, has created a consistently attractive, faultlessly maintained and happily served retreat that is a joy to experience and to recommend, with more than a modicum of enthusiasm.
Bare diner walls have been filled with a variety of art; there's a small bar up front where I presume that the counter must have been. Today the bar looks as though it was imported from some sophisticated spot in France or Italy.
There are other powerful reminders of the Old Country, and I suppose that must be part of the powerful appeal that Vittorio has for its loyal legion of Delray Beach fans.
Over the years we've watched Vittorio prosper, and we marvel at the fact that Vittorio has been able to stay on the top for so many years -- in a business that is plagued with the problems of inconsistency and staff shortages. In recent years, Vittorio has lost two of his star staff members: the chef who opened his own place, Il Girasole, and the captain who did the same with a trendy cafe called Charlie's.
Starting with our appetizers, selected from the list of 10 that range in price from $2 for the soup of the night to $8 for a dish the menu called Scampi Della Casa.
Of course, we had to have that specialty of the house. It was excellent. And so was the black bean soup, prepared the Spanish way and evaluated by a guest who prides herself on her own magic manner with that classic.
Then there were the pasta selections, the tortellini and the cannelloni (OK, but not particularly exciting.). The noodles were stuffed with a meat-and- mushroom combination and dolloped with a thick cheese sauce, which also was spooned over the single roll of cannelloni.
The house salads that followed were well above the norm, and the house creamy Italian dressing is very good indeed -- not at all destructive to our choice of wine, selected from a very limited list. It was a $20 bottle of Chardonnay from Burgess Cellars.
Some attention should be paid to expanding the wine list.
Vittorio's menu demands it, and I'm sure his many repeat customers also would welcome some greater variety and price range. He has a continental restaurant; he should have a continental wine list, one that represents the broadest spectrum of the Italian, French and California vintners with some budget- conscious wines from Spain thrown in for good measure.
There are close to 20 items on the menu that cry out for wine, and they range in price from $14 for chicken dishes -- tetrazzini, cordon bleu, Parmesan, piccata or financiere -- and sauteed calf's liver served with bacon and onions on up to $17 for Alaskan king crab legs and New York sirloin and something called Vittorio's Special Treat, a "gourmet festival, a gastronomical medley." That's defined by the irrepressible Vittorio as fettuccine Alfredo, veal medallions prepared any way desired, scampi, (prepared with the usual garlic-enhanced butter and a shower of chopped scallions), a salad, a vegetable and a glass of wine.
Despite its four-star assignation on the menu, we searched elsewhere for our treats, choosing instead the sauteed soft-shell crab, a fresh fish of the day, veal Francese and veal sweetbreads financiere.
The delicate sweetbreads were gently sauteed in a white wine-butter blend and a generous flurry of mushrooms. They were far better than the veal Francese, which had a slightly slippery, almost greasy coating to it.
The soft-shells (which had been frozen as our obliging captain honestly reported) were handled with a little more finesse and there was great conscience demonstrated in the use of garlic. The fish of the day was yellowtail, and it tasted as fresh as the captain promised. Its companions of artichoke hearts and mushrooms swimming in a fine mornay sauce were admirable.