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- XIV international Elbrus Race 2019
September 16 - September 20 2019
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1989 Elbrus race
Today we find out that almost 20 years have passed from the date of the first Balyberdin's Elbrus race…
Suddenly I found out that 20 years have passed from the date of the very first Balyberdin's Elbrus race…
(ed. note: Vladimir was a legendary personality in Soviet mountaineering. He was the first soviet climber, who reached Everest peak in 1982. And also he was super-experienced technical and high altitude climber, repeated USSR champion.)
It is a time to recollect, how the idea of mountain speed ascent contest had occurred. Not like selection tests for a Himalaya expedition members, but specifically — independent contest.
Vladimir Balyberdin had a pretty good idea what actually is the speed ascent competition – he has been through it many times in the struggle against self and contenders during selection tests for the Soviet Himalaya expeditions to Everest (1982) and Kangchenjunga (1989).
How it happened to him to come to the idea that such races can be interesting not only like selection tests for any other specific purpose, but as the speed ascent contest itself?
Probably, this idea became a consequence of numerous conversations between climbers how quickly they'd climbed this or that route, or maybe in background lays the legendary story, widely told during Kangchenjunga expedition selection test in February 1987, about «Kyrgyz» (Alexander Sheynov) running from Priyut 11 to Elbrus eastern peak in 2hrs 12 min (by the way, this story is absolute truth!!!)
Read more: 1989 Elbrus race
Balyberdin's race of 1990
Foreword of Nick Shustrov:
Last winter I received a letter from an American Dan Howitt, with the application for participation in the Elbrus Race 2009. We started an active correspondence - he was very interested in all the details of the race.
February 6, he sent a letter with contacts of 5 leading "climbing" media including the Boukreev Fund , with a proposal to send information about the Elbrus Race and a question if he would be the very first American going to participate in the race? Or someone from the U.S. was already running on Mount Elbrus in the past? Alex Lowe or Anatoly Boukreev' friend Kevin Cooney?
Read more: Balyberdin's race of 1990
Kevin Cooney's tale
Elbrus race 1990 by Kevin Cooney
photo: sitting on the bench: Ira Tolkunova, Anatoly Boukreev, Alexey Roguozin, Patrick Healy. Below Elena Kuleshova and Kevin Cooney
Read more: Kevin Cooney's tale
Elbrus race history
Speed ascents to Elbrus or Elbrus Races - how it all begins
In the Soviet period speed ascent competitions on Elbrus slopes — from Mir station till Garabashi station and from Priut 11 till the col — were the part of training program for the members of the soviet Himalaya expeditions (1982, 1989). Elbrus was well-known for all seriuos Soviet mountaineers, as the mount's location is very comfortable and its height is enough for the race. It was considered to be a prestigious action — to take part in these races, and the strongest USSR climbers had competed there.
Read more: Elbrus race history
aka "Bal"
Vladimir Balyberdin, aka "Bal"...
Balyberdin Vladimir Sergeevich (1949-1994).
Born in Altai, then moved to Leningrad - graduated from LEIS of Bonch-Bruevich. He worked as a senior engineer at the Central Research Institute of the Navy, from 1980 - instructor of climbing at the Leningrad City Council DSO "Spartak" (ie, became a professional climber - approx. Ed.). One of the most talented Soviet climbers of new generation and the only in the history of USSR sport
Candidate to Master of Sport of Soviet Union, who directly (bypassing the rank Master of Sport) have got the title: ZMS (Honored Master of Sport) - 08.06.1982 (№ 2828), MSMK (international Master of Sport) - 31.12.1982 (№ 7937).
Vladimir Balyberdin is a climber hardly known by World climbing society. As confirmation of the fact I brought together nearly all links from English speaking web, I was able to find (see below). From other hand everyone who has luck to meet "Bal" (that was his nickname) know for sure - he was outstanding climber and great personality.
Read more: aka "Bal"
aka-Kirghiz
There are only a few photos of Sasha
He did not like to be photographed...
Alexandr Sheynov.
aka Kirghiz.
12/01/58 - 17/08/92.
In those years, enthusiasm about solo climbing punished quite severe. Soviet climber shouldn go to climb alone!
Kyrghyz was "stripped" (=they take away official recognition of his experiance), expelled from mountaineering camps, not "released" (=they gave no permition to climb certain mountain or route) on the mountain. But no one method was able break this man. He again and again went solo. He lived in tents away from alplagerey ate that have and continue to, walk alone.
Read more: aka-Kirghiz
aka "Slim"
Valeriy Khrichtchatyii
MSMK (Master of Sport of International level - one of Top sport levels in USSR)(1980), ZMS (Honored Mater of Sport - the very top of sport titles)- (1982).
Five-time "Snow Leopard", one of the strongest climbers in the world (39 peaks over 7000).
Read more: aka "Slim"
aka "Buka"
Anatoly Boukreev (1958-1997)
Legendary Soviet (USSR / Kazakhstan), high-altitude climber. "Snow Leopard" (1985). Honored Master of Sports of the USSR (1991). 11 times of 8000-conquerer, with 18 climbs on them (the record for the CIS). Guide and consultant to the ascent to high altitudes 7000-8000 m, photographer and writer.
Read more: aka "Buka"
History of Elbrus race
aka "Kirghiz"
Kevin Cooney tale
photos of 1990
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