The Szechuan version of this fowl, "ya" in Chinese, is served with rolls to offset the rich skin
.... Their 
warm, wickedly rich versionbilled as a side but served last,  la ... bird ruled the 
roost: David Chang's poultry tour de force, with buttermilk-battered, .... at the 
kitchen line at Danny Bowien's hyper-modern Chinese banquet hall.