Q:

How tight should threaded brass pipe fittings be?

I'm working with 3/4" brass fittings, which seem pretty robust. 
Some plumbing fittings should be only finger-tight. My friend said I should use 2 wrenches to make these as tight as I can, and then some.
How tight should I make them?
EDIT: I am plumbing water, but I'd like to learn to plumb gas, too.

A:

As a general rule, fittings with tapered pipe threads (NPT) should not be assembled to a specific torque because the torque required for a reliable joint varies with thread quality, port and fitting materials, sealant used, and other factors. (Source: Parker Hannifin Catalog 4300 Port End Assembly, page T7)

Leakage path through NPT threads occurs between the very peaks of one thread and the very valley of the opposing thread. No matter how tight you make NPT threads, a leakage path still exists. It is the function of the sealant to block the path between the male and female thread.
This is most helpful!
Most screwed piping is tightened until it feels "right" and the fitting is pointing in the desired direction. What the experienced mechanic is often "feeling" is how the fitting is getting tight. Screw it into until it starts to seat. Then up the force a little by yanking. If each yank gives less movement, you probably have a sound joint. If the movement stops suddenly, you have probably bottomed out. The experienced plumber knows when to stop before he damages the fitting or boss. Caution is advised, tapered pipe fittings into an aluminum boss as excessive torque can crack the boss. This is especially true when using Teflon tape because the low friction of Teflon makes it easy to over-tighten. 

A:

According to this reference, the pipe should be in the fitting 9/16" for 3/4 NPT threads.
This one states 0.400 inches for hand tight and 0.5457 for maximum. WRT the above 9/16 is 0.5625 inches, so some minor disagreement there.
This one agrees (within rounding error) with the second (0.400 and 0.546), and also provides a helpful guide for number of turns (4.5 to hand tight, 3 with wrench beyond that)
I also recall, but am not finding a reference for a rule of thumb that there should be 3 threads exposed past the fitting (the picture in the last link is particularly good at showing why, I think, but does not mention the RoT) This sprinkler document does provide something on that line, indicating a range of 3.4-3.9 threads for 1/4 to 1-1/4 pipe sizes, and up to 5.1 on some larger sizes.
And yes, despite any misleading information you may find on the internet, whether it's pipe dope or tape, it is a required "SEALANT" for the helical leak path at the thread roots. Lubrication is all well and good, but that not why it's used. I've personally moved from old-stye dope to teflon tape to new-style teflon dope. YMMV.

