Q:

Meaning of "take"

Context (New York Times),

Today, sampling the cuisine can be a rarefied and pricey experience; meals at Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurants like Kikunoi (kikunoi.jp/english) run upward of $160 a person. But for an unbuttoned — and surprisingly affordable — take on kaiseki, try Giro Giro Hitoshina...

At first, I thought take here is used  as a noun, which is from its verb sense  -- as you know, when take is used as a verb, it can be paired up with certain foods, drinks, etc., for example, take a drink, take a meal.  But it seems take also has the sense of, see American Heritage Dictionary of the English Language,

7.Slang An attempt or a try: He got the answer on the third take.

Do you think that take means try in this context?

A:

Short answer: Take also means an opinion or assessment, though this article intends the meaning sampling.
Elaboration: Usually take is followed by "on", then followed by whatever the opinion is about (e.g. What's your take on the candidate?), and is rarely used otherwise in this sense.  However, this article's usage is rather awkward, since opinion here is ambiguous; it sounds as if you are asking a master chef for his opinion, rather than (as it actually means) forming your own opinion by tasting the restaurant's food.  Sampling might be a better word here:

To get an unbuttoned — and surprisingly affordable — sampling of [this Japanese food], try [this restaurant].

