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Beef

[Illustration: Fig. 1. 1. Cheek. 2. Neck. 3. Chuck Rib, or Shoulder having four Ribs. 4. Front of the Shoulder, or Shoulder Clod, sometimes called Brisket. 5. Back of the Shoulder. 6. Fore Shin, or Leg. 7,7. Plate pieces; the front one is the Brisket, and the back one is the Flank, and is divided again into the Thick Flank, or Upper Sirloin, and the Lower Flank. 8. Standing Ribs, divided into First, Second, and Third Cuts. The First Cut is next to the Sirloin, and is the best. 9. Sirloin. 10. Sirloin Steak. 11. Rump, or Etch Bone. 12. Round, or Buttock. 13. Leg, or Hind Shank.]

Veal

[Illustration: Fig. 2. 1. Head and Pluck. 2. Rack and Neck. 3. Shoulder. 4. Fore Shank, or Knuckle. 5. Breast. 6. Loin. 7. Fillet, or Leg. 8. Hind Shank, or Knuckle.] [Illustration: _Mutton._ Fig. 3. 1. Shoulder. 2, 2. Neck, or Rack. 3. Loin. 4. Leg. 5. Breast. A _Chine_ is two Loins. A _Saddle of Mutton_ is two Legs and two Loins.] [Illustration: _Pork._ Fig. 4. 1. Leg. 2. Hind Loin. 3. Fore Loin. 4. Spare Rib. 5. Hand. 6. Spring. _A Lamb_ is divided into two fore quarters and two hind quarters. _Venison._ In this country nothing is used but the hind quarter. Two legs and two loins are called a _Saddle_.]

Beef

The _Sirloin_ is to be roasted, and it is considered the best piece for steaks. The piece next forward of the Sirloin is about as good as any for roasting. The _Rump_ is to be corned, or cooked _à la mode_. The _Round_ is used for corning, or _à la mode_. The _Edge_ or _Etch Bone_ is corned, or for soup. The _Hock_ or _Shin_ is used for soups. The _Rib_ pieces of the fore quarter are used as roasting pieces. The _first cut_, which is next the Sirloin, is the best, and the others are better for corning. The _Head_ is used for mince pies, and the _Tongue_ for smoking. The _Legs_ are used for soups. The remaining pieces are used for salting down, stews, soups, and mince pies, according to various tastes. The _Tallow_ is to be tried up for candles.

Veal

The _Loin_ is used for roasting. The _Fillet_ (which is the leg and hind flank) is used for cutlets, or to stuff and boil, or to stuff and roast. The _Chump end_ of the loin is used for roasting. The _Knuckles_ are used for broths. The _Neck_ is used for stews, pot pies, and broths, as are most of the remaining pieces. Many persons roast the fore quarter, which is divided into two pieces, called the brisket, or breast, and the rack.

Mutton

The _Leg_ is boiled, or stuffed and roasted. The _Loin_ is roasted. The rest are for boiling, or corning. The Loin is chopped into pieces for broiling, called _Mutton Chops_. The Leg is often cut into slices and broiled. Many cure and smoke the leg, and call it smoked venison.

Pork

The _Shoulder_ and _Ham_ are used for smoking. The _Spare Rib_ is used for roasting, and often is used as including all the ribs. The _Shoulder_ sometimes is corned and boiled. That which is to be salted down must have all the lean taken out, which is to be used for sausages, or broiling. The _Feet_ use for jelly, head cheese, and souse.

Directions for cutting up a Hog

Split the Hog through the spine, take off each half of the head behind the ear, then take off a piece front of the shoulder and next the head, say four or five pounds, for sausages. Then take out _the leaf_ which lies around the kidneys, for lard. Then, with a knife, cut out the whole mass of the lean meat, except what belongs to the shoulder and the ham. Then take off the ham and the shoulder. Then take out all the fat to be used for lard, which is the loose piece, directly in front of the ham. Next cut off a narrow strip from the spring, or belly, for sausage meat. Cut up the remainder, which is clear Pork, for salting, in four or five strips of nearly equal width. Take off the cheek, or jowl, of the head for smoking with the ham; and use the upper part for boiling, baking, or head cheese. The feet are boiled and then fried, or used for jelly. It is most economical to try up the thin flabby pieces for lard to cook with. The leaf fat try by itself, for the nicest cooking. Clean all the intestines of the fat for lard. That which does not readily separate from the larger intestines use for soap grease. Of the insides, the liver, heart, sweet-breads, and kidneys, are sometimes used for broiling or frying. The smaller intestines are used for sausage cases. In salting down, leave out the bloody and lean portions, and use them for sausages.

To try out Lard

Take what is called _the leaves_ and take off all the skin, cut it into pieces an inch square, put it into a clean pot over a slow fire, and try it till the scraps look a reddish brown, taking great care not to let it burn, which would spoil the whole. Then strain it through a strong cloth, into a stone pot, and set it away for use. Take the fat to which the smaller intestines are attached (not the large ones), and the flabby pieces of pork not fit for salting, try these in the same way, and set the fat thus obtained where it will freeze, and by spring the strong taste will be gone, and then it can be used for frying.

Directions for salting down Pork

Cover the bottom of the barrel with salt an inch deep. Put down one layer of Pork and cover that with salt, half an inch thick. Continue thus till the barrel is full. Then pour in as much strong pickle as the barrel will receive. Always see that the Pork does not rise above the brine. When a white scum, or bloody-looking matter rises on the top, scald the brine and add more salt. Leave out bloody and lean pieces for sausages. The Pork ought to be packed as tight as possible, and _always_ kept _under_ the brine. Some use a stone for this purpose. In salting down a new supply, take the old brine, boil it down and remove all the scum, and then use it to pour over the Pork.

Mr. H. H.’s Receipt for Curing Hams

Take an ounce of saltpetre for each ham, and one pint of molasses to every pound of saltpetre. Then take a quarter of a pound of common salt for every pint of molasses used. Heat the mixture till it nearly boils, and smear the _meat_ side with it, keeping the mixture hot and rubbing it in well, especially around the bones and recesses. Let the hams lie after this from four to seven days, according to the size of the hams. Then place them in a salt pickle, strong enough to bear an egg, for three weeks. Then soak eight hours in fresh water. Then hang in the kitchen, or other more convenient place, to dry for a fortnight. Then smoke from three to five days, or till well smoked. Then wrap them up in strong tar paper, tying it close. Then tie them tight in bags of coarse unbleached cotton, stuffing in shavings, so that no part of the paper touches the cotton. Hang them near the roof in a garret, and they will never give you any trouble.

To prepare Cases for Sausages

Empty the cases, taking care not to tear them. Wash them thoroughly, and cut into lengths of two yards each. Then take a candle rod, and fastening one end of a case to the top of it, turn the case inside outward. When all are turned, wash very thoroughly and scrape them with a scraper made for the purpose, keeping them in warm water till ready to scrape. Throw them into salt and water to soak till used. It is a very difficult job to scrape them clean without tearing them. When finished they look transparent and very thin.

Sausage Meat

Take one-third fat and two-thirds lean pork and chop them, and then to every twelve pounds of meat, add twelve large even spoonfuls of pounded salt, nine of sifted sage, and six of sifted black pepper. Some like a little summer savory. Keep them in a cool and dry place.

Bologna Sausages

Take equal portions of veal, pork, and ham, chop them fine, season with sweet herbs and pepper, put them in cases, boil them till tender, and then dry them.

Another Receipt for Sausage Meat

To twenty-five pounds of chopped meat, which should be one-third fat and two-thirds lean, put twenty spoonfuls of sage, twenty-five of salt, ten of pepper, and four of summer savory.

Pickle for Beef, Pork, Tongues, or Hung Beef

Mix, in four gallons of water, a pound and a half of sugar or molasses, and of saltpetre two ounces. If it is to last a month or two, put in six pounds of salt; if you wish to keep it over the summer, use nine pounds of salt. Boil all together gently, and skim, and then let it cool. Put the meat in the vessel in which it is to stand, pour the pickle on the meat till it is covered, and keep it for family use. Once in two months boil and skim the pickle, and throw in two ounces of sugar and half a pound of salt. When tongues and hung beef are taken out, wash and dry the pieces, put them in paper bags and hang in a dry, warm place. In very hot weather, rub the meat well with salt before it is put in the pickle, and let it lie three hours for the bloody portion to run out. Too much saltpetre is injurious.

Another by measure, and with less trouble

For every gallon of cold water, use a quart of rock salt, a tablespoon heaping full of saltpetre, six heaping tablespoonfuls of brown sugar, and two quarts of blown salt. No boiling is needed; keep it as long as there is salt undissolved at the bottom. When scum rises scald it, and add more sugar, salt, and saltpetre. Keep weights on the meat to keep it under. In very hot weather fresh meat will often spoil if it is put in cold pickle. At such times put the meat into hot pickle and boil it for twenty minutes, and the meat will keep a month or more. If you save the pickle, add a little more salt to it.

To salt down Beef to keep the year round

To one hundred pounds of beef, take four quarts of rock salt pounded very fine, four ounces of saltpetre made very fine, four pounds of brown sugar, all well mixed. Scatter some over the bottom of the barrel, lay down one layer, and over that scatter the proportion of salt belonging to such a portion of the meat, allowing rather the most to the top layers. Pack all down very close, and if any scum should rise, sprinkle a pint or more of salt over the top.

To Cleanse Calf’s Head and Feet

Wash clean, and sprinkle pounded rosin over the hair, dip in boiling water and take out immediately, and then scrape them clean. Then soak them in water four days, changing the water every day.

To Prepare Rennet

Take the stomach of a new-killed calf, and do not wash it, as it weakens the gastric juice. Hang it in a cool and dry place five days or so, then turn the inside out and slip off the curds with the hand. Then fill it with salt, with a little saltpetre mixed in, and lay it in a stone pot, pouring on a teaspoonful of vinegar, and sprinkling on a handful of salt. Cover it closely and keep for use. After six weeks, take a piece four inches square and put it in a bottle with five gills of cold water and two gills of rose brandy, stop it close, and shake it when you use it. A tablespoonful is enough for a quart of milk.

Smoked Boiled Tongues

Soak them in cold water all night, then wash them and boil for four or five hours, according to the size. When cooked, take off the skin and garnish with parsley.

À la Mode Beef

Take a round of beef, cut it full of holes entirely through it, roll strips of raw salt pork in a seasoning made of thyme, cloves, and pepper and salt, half a teaspoonful of each; then draw these strips through the holes in the beef. Put some small onions, say half a dozen, with a quarter of a pound of butter into a sauce-pan with two great spoonfuls of milk and stew them till soft, put your beef and these onions in a pot, (you can stew the onions in the pot instead of the sauce-pan if you prefer it,) pour on hot water just enough to cover it, and let it cook slowly four or five hours. Just before taking it up, add a pint of wine, either Port or Claret. The onions can be cooked separately if preferred.

Another à la Mode Beef

If you have about five pounds of beef, take one pound of bread, soak it in water, pour off the water and mash it fine, adding a bit of butter the size of half a hen’s egg, salt, mace, pepper, cloves, half a teaspoonful each, pounded fine. Mix all with a tablespoonful of flour and two eggs. Then cut holes through the beef and put in half of this seasoning, and put it in a bake-pan with boiling water enough to cover it. Put the pan lid, heated, over it, and a few coals on it, and let it stew two hours, then take it up and spread the other half of the dressing on the top, and add butter the size of a hen’s egg, heat the pan lid again hot enough to brown the dressing, and let it stew again an hour and a half. When taken up, if the gravy is not thick enough, add a teaspoonful of flour wet up in cold water, then add a couple of glasses of white wine to the gravy, and a bit of butter as large as a walnut.

To Boil a Leg of Veal or Mutton

Make a stuffing of bread, and a quarter as much of salt pork, chopped fine and seasoned with sweet herbs, pepper and salt. Make deep gashes, or what is better, take out the bone with a carving knife, and fill up with stuffing, and sew up the opening with strong thread. When there is a flap of flesh, lap it over the opening and sew it down. Put it into a large pot and fill it with water, putting in a tablespoonful of salt, and let it simmer slowly three hours. If it is needful to add water, pour in boiling water. When it is done take it up, and save the broth for next day’s dinner.

Pot Pie, of Beef, Veal, or Chicken

The best way to make the crust is as follows. Peel, boil, and mash a dozen potatoes, add a teaspoonful of salt, two great spoonfuls of butter, and half a cup of milk, or cream. Then stiffen it with flour, till you can roll it. Be sure to get all the lumps out of the potatoes. Some persons leave out the butter. Some roll butter into the dough of bread, others make a raised biscuit with but little shortening, others make a plain pie crust. But none are so good and healthful as the potato crust. To prepare the meat, first fry half a dozen slices of salt pork, and then cut up the meat and pork, and boil them in just water enough to cover them, till the meat is nearly cooked. Then peel a dozen potatoes, and slice them thin. Then roll the crust half an inch thick, and cut it into oblong pieces. Then put alternate layers of crust, potatoes, and meat, till all is used. The meat must have salt and pepper sprinkled over each layer. The top and bottom layer must be crust. Lastly, pour on the liquor in which the meat was boiled, until it just covers the whole, and let it simmer till the top crust is well cooked, say half or three quarters of an hour. If you have occasion to add more liquor, or water, it must be _boiling hot_, or the crust will be spoilt. The excellence of this pie depends on having light crust, and therefore the meat must first be nearly cooked before putting it in the pie, and the crust must be in only just long enough to cook, or it will be clammy and hard. When nearly done, the crust can be browned, with hot coals on a bake-lid. Great care is needed not to burn the crust, which should not be put where the fire reached the pot on the bottom.

Calf’s Head

Take out the brains and boil the head, feet, and lights, in salted water, just enough to cover them, about two hours. When they have boiled nearly an hour and a half, tie the brains in a cloth and put them in to boil with the rest. They should previously be soaked half an hour in cold water. When the two hours have expired, take up the whole, and mash the brains fine, and season them with bread crumbs, pepper, salt, and a glass of Port or Claret, and use them for sauce. Let the liquor remain for a soup the next day. It serves more handsomely to remove all the bones.

Curried Dishes

Chickens and veal are most suitable for curries. Boil the meat till tender, and separate the joints. Put a little butter in a stew-pan with the chickens, pour on a part of the liquor in which the meat was boiled, enough nearly to cover it, and let it stew twenty minutes more. Prepare the curry thus: for four pounds of meat, take a tablespoonful of curry powder, a tea-cup of _boiled_ rice, a tablespoonful of flour, and another of melted butter, a tea-cup of the liquor, and half a teaspoonful of salt, mix them, and pour them over the meat and let it stew ten minutes more. Rice should be boiled for an accompaniment.

To Prepare Curry Powder

One ounce of ginger, one ounce of mustard, one of pepper, three of coriander seed, three of tumeric, half an ounce of cardamums, quarter of an ounce of Cayenne pepper, quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, and quarter of an ounce of cummin seed. Pound them fine, sift them, and cork them tight in a bottle.

Veal Stew

Cut four pounds of veal into pieces three inches long and an inch thick, put it into the pot with water enough to cover it, and rise an inch over. Add a teaspoonful of salt, and put in four or five good slices of salt pork, and half a tea-cup of rice, butter the size of a hens egg, and season with pepper, salt, and sweet herbs, and let it simmer slowly till the rice is quite soft, allowing half an hour to heat and an hour to simmer. If there is too little water, pour in _boiling_ water. Adding a little curry turns it into a dish of curried veal, of which many are very fond. Be sure and skim it well, just before it begins to simmer. _Another Veal Stew_ (_very fine_). Cut four pounds of veal into strips three inches long and an inch thick, peel twelve large potatoes and cut them into slices an inch thick, then spread a layer of veal on the bottom of the pot, and sprinkle a little salt and a very little pepper over it, then put a layer of potatoes, then a layer of veal seasoned as before. Use up the veal thus, and over the last layer of veal put a layer of slices of salt pork, and over the whole a layer of potatoes. Pour in water till it rises an inch over the whole, and cover it as close as possible, heat it fifteen minutes and simmer it an hour. Ten minutes before taking up, put in butter the size of a hen’s egg, stir in a thin batter made of two tablespoonfuls of flour. Many add sweet herbs to the salt and pepper.

To Stew Birds

Wash and stuff them with bread crumbs, seasoned with pepper, salt, butter, or chopped salt pork, and fasten them tight. Line a stew-pan with slices of bacon, add a quart of water and a bit of butter the size of a goose egg, or else four slices of salt pork. Add, if you like, sliced onions and sweet herbs, and mace. Stew till tender, then take them up and strain the gravy over them. Add boiling water if the liquor is too much reduced.

A fine Mutton Stew

Take three quarts of peeled and sliced potatoes, three large onions, peeled and sliced, and mutton and ham cut into slices. Make layers first of potatoes, salted, and then with the mutton, sprinkled with salt, pepper, gravy, or butter, and mushroom or tomato catsup, two tea-cups of water, and the ham in small quantities. Cover tight and stew for an hour and a half. Watch, and add boiling water if needed, as there must be a good supply of gravy at the bottom.

A Sausage Stew

Make a thick layer of slices of peeled potatoes, put on a little salt, and then cut up sausages over the potatoes. Continue alternate layers of potatoes and sausages, the top layer being potatoes, pour in a little water and some gravy, or butter, and if you have bits of ham mix them with the sausages.

To Bake Beef

Take ten pounds of the buttock, rub it with salt and let it lie a day or two, then wash it, and make openings in the beef and insert bits of salt pork dipped in a mixture of powdered pepper, cloves, and fine minced onions, cover it, and let it bake four or five hours. Put a pint of water and teaspoonful of salt in the baking pan and baste occasionally. Make a gravy of the drippings.

Beef, or Mutton and Potato Pie

Take a deep dish, butter it, and put in it a layer of mashed potatoes, seasoned with butter, pepper, salt and minced onions. Take slices of beef, or mutton, and season them with pepper and salt, lay them with small bits of salt pork over the potatoes. Then fill the dish with alternate layers, as above described, having the upper one potatoes. Bake an hour, or an hour and a half.

To Cook Pigeons

Pigeons are good stuffed and roasted, or baked. They are better stewed thus:--Stuff them like turkeys, put them in a pot, breast downwards, and cover them with salted water an inch above the top, and simmer them two hours if tender, and three if tough. When nearly done, stir in a bit of butter the size of a goose egg, for every dozen pigeons. Take them up and add a little flour paste to the gravy, with salt and pepper, and pour some of it over them, and put the rest in a gravy dish.

Beef, or Veal Stewed with Apples (very good)

Rub a stew-pan with butter, cut the meat in thin slices, and put in, with pepper, salt, and apple sliced fine; some would add a little onion. Cover it tight, and stew till tender.

To Boil a Turkey

Make a stuffing for the craw, of chopped bread and butter, cream, oysters, and the yolks of eggs. Sew it in, and dredge flour over the turkey, and put it to boil in cold water, with a spoonful of salt in it, and enough water to cover it well. Let it simmer for two hours and a half, or if small, less time. Skim it while boiling. It looks nicer if wrapped in a cloth dredged with flour. Serve it with drawn butter, in which are put some oysters.

To Boil Corned Beef

Put the beef in water enough to cover it, and let it heat slowly, and boil slowly, and be careful to take off the grease. Many think it much improved by boiling potatoes, turnips, and cabbage with it. In this case the vegetables must be peeled, and _all_ the grease carefully skimmed as fast as it rises. Allow about twenty minutes of boiling for each pound of meat.

General Remarks

Be sure you have your spit and tin oven very clean and bright, and for this end wash them, if possible, before they get cold. If they stand, pour boiling water on to them. Have a fire so large as to extend half a foot beyond the roaster each side. When meat is thin and tender, have a small, brisk fire. When your meat is large, and requires long roasting, have large solid wood, kindled with charcoal and small sticks. Set the meat, at first, some distance from the place where it is to roast, so as to have it heat through gradually, and then move it up to roast. Slow roasting, especially at first, and still more for large pieces, is very important. Allow about _fifteen minutes_ for each pound of most kinds of meat, and if it is cold weather, or the meat fresh killed, more time is required, probably twenty minutes for each pound. When the meat is nearly done, stir up the fire to brown it. The meat should be basted a good deal, especially the first part of the time. Let meat be spitted so as to be equally balanced. When the meat is nearly done, the steam from it will be drawn toward the fire. A pale brown is the proper color for a roast. Some dredge on flour and baste, a short time before roasted meats are done. Whenever fresh lard is used instead of butter, in the dripping-pan, or to rub on meats, more salt must be used. Flour thickening in gravies must be wet up with very little water till the lumps are out, and then made thin. Never dredge flour into gravies, as it makes lumps. Strain all gravies.

Roast Beef

The sirloin, and the first and second cuts of the rack, are the best roasting pieces. Rub it with salt; set the bony side to the fire to heat awhile, then turn it, and have a strong fire; and if thick, allow fifteen minutes to the pound; if thin, allow a little less. If fresh killed, or if it is very cold, allow a little more time. Half an hour before it is done, pour off the gravy, thicken it with brown flour, and season it with salt and pepper. It is the fashion to serve roast beef with no other gravy than the juice of the meat.

Roast Lamb

The fore and hind quarter of lamb are used for roasting. Rub on a little softened butter, and then some salt and pepper, heat the bony side first, then turn and roast by a brisk fire, allowing about fifteen minutes to a pound, and rather more if fresh killed, or the weather cold. Put a pint of water and a teaspoonful of salt in the dripping-pan, and a little lard, or butter. Lamb is to be cooked thoroughly. The following is a very excellent _sauce_ for roast lamb. Pick, wash, and shred fine, some fresh mint, put on it a tablespoonful of sugar, and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar; or, chop some hard pickles to the size of capers, and put them to half a pint of melted butter, and a teaspoonful of vinegar.

Roast Mutton

The saddle, shoulder, and leg are used for roasting. Rub the mutton with butter, and then with salt and pepper, and some add pounded allspice, or cloves. Put butter, or lard, in the dripping-pan, with a quart of water, or a pint for a small piece, and baste it often. Set the bony side toward the fire, at some distance, that it may heat through before roasting. Allow about a quarter of an hour for every pound. Mutton should be cooked rare. Make a brown gravy, and serve it with currant jelly.

Roast Veal

The loin is the best for roasting, the breast and rack the next best. Wash the piece to be roasted in cold water, rub a little butter softened over it, and then some pepper and salt, put a pint or more water in the dripping-pan, and unless there is a good deal of fat, a bit of lard, or butter, and baste often. Set the bony side first to the fire to heat. Allow twenty minutes for every pound, and if cold, or fresh killed, a little more. Veal should be cooked very thoroughly. In roasting any part except the loin, cut slits in the veal and draw through the bits of salt pork, which, while roasting, impart a flavor to the veal.

To Roast a Fillet or Leg of Veal

Cut off the shank bone of a leg of veal, and cut gashes in what remains. Make a dressing of chopped raw salt pork, salt, pepper, sweet herbs and bread crumbs, or use butter instead of pork. Stuff the openings in the meat with the dressing, put it in a bake-pan with water, just enough to cover it, and let it bake, say two hours for six pounds. Or put it in a tin oven, and roast it two or three hours, according to the size.

Baked, or Roasted Pig

Take a pig that weighs from seven to twelve pounds, and as much as five weeks old. Wash it thoroughly outside and inside. Take any fresh cold meat, say one pound, and a quarter of a pound of salt pork, and twice as much bread as you have meat. Chop the bread by itself, and chop the meat and pork fine and mix all together, adding sweet herbs, pepper and salt, half a tea-cup of butter, and one egg. Stuff the pig with it, and sew it up tight. Take off the legs at the middle joint. Put it into a dripping-pan with cross-bars or a grate to hold it up, and with the legs tied, and pour into the pan a pint of water and set it in the oven. As soon as it begins to cook, swab it with salt and water, and then in fifteen minutes do it again. If it blisters it is cooking too fast; swab it, and diminish the heat. It must bake, if weighing twelve pounds, three hours. When nearly done, rub it with butter. When taken out set it for three minutes in the cold, to make it crisp.

To Roast a Spare Rib

Rub with salt, pepper, and powdered sage. Put the bone side to warm slowly. Dredge on a little flour, and put a little salted water and butter into the dripping-pan, and baste with it. If large, it requires three hours; if small, only one to cook it. Pork must be cooked slowly and very thoroughly.

Roast Turkey

Wash the outside and inside very clean. Take bread crumbs, grated or chopped, about enough to fill the turkey, chop a bit of salt pork, the size of a good egg, and mix it in, with butter, the size of an egg, pepper, salt, and sweet herbs to your taste. Then beat up an egg and work in. Fill the crop and the body, sew them up, and tie the legs and wings, and spit them. Set it where it will gradually heat, and turn it once or twice, while heating, for fifteen minutes. Then put it up to the fire, and allow about twenty-five minutes for each pound. Turkey must be cooked very thoroughly. It must roast slowly at first, and be often basted with butter on a fork. Dredge it with flour just before taking it up, and let it brown. Put the inwards in a skillet to boil for two hours, chop them up, season them, use the liquor they are boiled in for gravy, and thicken it with brown flour, and a bit of butter, the size of a hen’s egg. This is the giblet sauce. Take the drippings, say half a pint, thickened with a paste, made of a tablespoonful of brown, or white flour, and let it simmer five minutes, and then use it for thin gravy.

Roast Goose

A goose should be roasted in the same manner as a turkey. It is better to make the stuffing of mashed potatoes, seasoned with salt, pepper, sage, and onions, to the taste. Apple sauce is good to serve with it. Allow fifteen minutes to a pound, for a gosling, and twenty or more for an older one. Goose should be cooked rare.

Roast Chickens

Wash them clean outside and inside, stuff them as directed for turkeys, baste them with butter, lard, or drippings, and roast them about an hour. Chickens should be cooked thoroughly. Stew the inwards till tender, and till there is but little water, chop them and mix in gravy from the dripping-pan, thicken with brown flour, and season with salt, pepper, and butter. Cranberry, or new-made apple sauce, is good with them.

Roast Ducks

Wash the ducks, and stuff them with a dressing made with mashed potatoes, wet with milk, and chopped onions, sage, pepper, salt, and a little butter, to suit your taste. Reserve the inwards to make the gravy, as is directed for turkeys, except it should be seasoned with sage and chopped onions. They will cook in about an hour. Ducks are to be cooked rare. Baste them with salt water, and before taking up, dredge on a little flour and let it brown. Green peas and stewed cranberries are good accompaniments. Canvass-back ducks are cooked without stuffing. Wild ducks must be soaked in salt and water the night previous, to remove the fishy taste, and then in the morning put in fresh water, which should be changed once or twice.

Mutton and Beef Pie

Line a dish with a crust made of potatoes, as directed in the Chicken Pot Pie. Broil the meat ten minutes, after pounding it till the fibres are broken. Cut the meat thin, and put it in layers, with thin slices of broiled salt pork, season with butter, the size of a hen’s egg, salt, pepper, (and either wine or catsup, if liked); put in water till it nearly covers the meat, and dredge in considerable flour, cover it with the paste, and bake it an hour and a half if quite thick. Cold meats are good cooked over in this way. Cut a slit in the centre of the cover.

Chicken Pie

Joint and boil two chickens in salted water, just enough to cover them, and simmer slowly for half an hour. Line a dish with raised or potato crust, or pie crust, then put the chicken in layers, with thin slices of broiled pork, butter, the size of a goose egg, cut in small pieces. Put in enough of liquor, in which the meat was boiled, to reach the surface, salt and pepper each layer, dredge in a little flour, and cover all with a light, thick crust. Ornament the top with the crust, and bake about one hour in a hot oven. Make a small slit in the centre of the crust. If it begins to scorch, lay a paper over a short time.

Mutton Haricot

Make a rich gravy by boiling the coarser parts for the liquor, and seasoning with pepper, spice, and catsup. Cut into the gravy, carrots, parsnips, onions, and celery, boiled tender; then broil the mutton, first seasoning it with salt and pepper, put them into the gravy, and stew all about ten minutes. Garnish with small pickles.

To Cook a Shoulder of Lamb

Check the shoulder with cuts an inch deep, rub on first butter, then salt, pepper, and sweet herbs, over these put the yolk of an egg and bread crumbs, and then bake or roast it a light brown. Make a gravy of the drippings, seasoning with pepper, salt, and tomato catsup, and also the grated rind and juice of a lemon; thicken with a very little flour.

Rice Chicken Pie

Line a pudding dish with slices of broiled ham, cut up a boiled chicken, and nearly fill the dish, filling in with gravy or melted butter; add minced onions if you like, or a little curry powder, which is better. Then pile boiled rice to fill all interstices, and cover the top quite thick. Bake it for half or three quarters of an hour.

Potato Pie

Take mashed potatoes, seasoned with salt, butter, and milk, and line a baking dish. Lay upon it slices of cold meats of any kind with salt, pepper, catsup, and butter, or gravy. Put on another layer of potatoes, and then another of cold meat as before. Lastly, on the top put a cover of potatoes. Bake it till it is thoroughly warmed through, and serve it in the dish in which it is baked, setting it in, or upon another.

General Remarks

It is best to fry in lard not salted, and this is better than butter. Mutton and beef suet are good for frying. When the lard seems hot, try it by throwing in a bit of bread. When taking up fried articles, drain off the fat on a wire sieve.

A nice Way of Cooking Calf’s or Pig’s Liver

Cut it in slices half an inch thick, pour on boiling water and then pour it off _entirely_, then let the liver brown in its own juices, turning it till it looks brown on both sides. Take it up and pour into the frying-pan enough cold water to make as much gravy as you wish; then sliver in onion, cut fine, add a little salt and nutmeg, and a bit of butter to season it, let it boil up once, then put back the liver for a minute, and then set it on the table.

Fried Veal Cutlets

Take half a pint of milk, add a well-beaten egg, and flour enough to make a batter. Fry the veal brown in some sweet lard, then dip it in the batter and fry again till brown. Drop in some spoonfuls of batter, to fry after the veal is taken up, and put them on the top of the veal. Then put a little thin flour paste into the gravy, adding salt and pepper, and after one boil, pour it over the whole. The veal must be cut quite thin, and it should cook nearly an hour in the whole.

Fricassee Chickens

Wash the chickens and divide them into pieces, put them in a pot, or stew-pan, with several slices of salt ham, or pork, and sprinkle each layer with salt and pepper; cover them with water, and let them simmer till tender, keeping them covered. Then take them up, and mix with the gravy a piece of butter the size of a hen’s egg, and a paste made of two teaspoonfuls of flour wet up with the gravy. Put back the chickens and let them stew five minutes. Then spread crackers, or toasted bread, on the platter, put the chickens on it, and pour the gravy over. In case it is wished to have them browned, take them out when nearly cooked and fry them in butter till brown, or pour off all the liquid and fry them in the pot.

Meats Warmed over

Cold beef is best made into pies as in a foregoing receipt. Veal is best made into hashes, or force meat, as in following receipts. If it is liked more simply cooked, chop it fine, put in water just enough to moisten it, butter, salt, pepper, and a little juice of a lemon. Some like a little lemon rind grated in. Heat it through, but do not let it fry. Put it on buttered toast, and garnish it with slices of lemon. Cold salted, or fresh beef are good chopped fine with pepper, salt, and catsup, and water enough to moisten a little. Add some butter just before taking it up, and do not let it fry, only heat it hot. It injures cooked meat to cook it again. Cold fowls make a nice dish to have them cut up in mouthfuls, add some of the gravy and giblet sauce, a little butter and pepper, and then heat them through.

A nice Way of Cooking Cold Meats

Chop the meat fine, add salt, pepper, a little onion, or else tomato catsup, fill a tin bread pan one-third full, cover it over with boiled potatoes salted and mashed with cream or milk, lay bits of butter on the top and set it into a Dutch, or stove oven, for fifteen or twenty minutes.

A Hash of Cold Meat for Dinner (very good)

Peel six large tomatoes and one onion, and slice them. Add a spoonful of sugar, salt and pepper, and a bit of butter the size of a hen’s egg, and half a pint of cold water. Shave up the meat into small bits, as thin as thick pasteboard. Dredge flour over it, say two teaspoonfuls, or a little less. Simmer the meat with all the rest for _one hour_, and then serve it, and it is very fine. Dried tomatoes can be used. When you have no tomatoes, make a gravy with water, pepper, salt, and butter, or cold gravy: slice an onion in it, add tomato catsup (two or three spoonfuls), and then prepare the meat as above, and simmer it in this gravy _one hour_.

Cold Meat Turnovers

Roll out wheat dough very thin, and put in it, like a _turnover_, cold meat chopped fine, and seasoned with pepper, salt, catsup, and sweet herbs. Make small ones, and fry them in lard till the dough is well cooked.

Head Cheese

Boil in salted water the ears, skin, and feet of pigs till the meat drops from the bones; chop it like sausage meat. Season the liquor with pepper, salt, cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon, or with pepper, salt, and sweet herbs, mix the meat with it, and while hot tie it in a strong bag and keep a heavy stone upon it until quite cold.

Souse

Cleanse pigs’ ears and feet and soak them a week in salt and water, changing the water every other day. Boil eight or ten hours till tender. When cold put on salt, and pour on hot spiced vinegar. Fry them in lard.

Tripe

Scrape and scour it thoroughly, soak it in salt and water a week, changing it every other day. Boil it eight or ten hours, till tender; then pour on spiced hot vinegar, or fry or broil it.

Force Meat Balls (another Hash.)

Chop cold veal fine with one-fourth as much salt pork. Season with salt, pepper, and sweet herbs. Make them into balls and fry them brown.

To Prepare Cold Beef Steaks

Put a fine minced onion into a stew-pan, and add half a dozen cloves and as many pepper corns, pour on a coffee cup of boiling water, and add three large spoonfuls of butter, or some gravy. Let it simmer ten minutes. Then cut up the beef in mouthfuls and put into this gravy to simmer four or five minutes, till heated through, but do not let it cook any more, as it is not healthful. Three large tomatoes stewed with the onion improves this.

A nice Way of Cooking Cold Boiled Ham

Make quite a thin batter of flour, water, and eggs, with a little salt. Pour the batter over the bottom of a Dutch oven, or frying-pan, which has a very little hot butter, or lard in it; say three great spoonfuls. Let the batter be no thicker on the bottom than a straw; let it fry a couple of minutes and then cover the batter with _very_ thin slices of ham, and pour a thin cover of batter over them. Let it fry till the bottom looks a yellowish brown (have a hot fire), then cut it into squares, or into triangular quarters, or eighths, and turn it with a knife, and let it fry till the other side is browned.

Another Way of Cooking Cold Ham

Cut up all the bits and ends, put them in a frying, or sauce pan, with a very little water and some butter. When warmed through, break in some eggs and stir them up with the ham until the egg is hardened.

A Veal Hash

Cut up cooked veal into strips, flour them and fry them to a light brown, in butter. Then take them up and mix as much hot water as there is gravy, add a little flour paste, season with salt, pepper, catsup, and lemon-juice, then add the meat and heat it hot.

Veal Balls (another Hash)

Chop the cold veal fine, removing hard portions, add as much bread crumbs as there is of meat, and half as much broiled salt pork chopped fine. Moisten all with a glass of white wine if you like it, put in two eggs, and season with salt, pepper, sweet herbs, and a little nutmeg. Form them into balls and fry in butter.

General Remarks

It is best to oil the bars of the gridiron with suet and also warm them before putting the meat on. Chalk is sometimes rubbed on to the gridiron, when fish is to be broiled. It is desirable to keep a gridiron expressly for fish, otherwise meat is often made to taste fishy.

Broiled Ham

Cut the ham into thin slices, and broil it very quickly over a hot fire, then put on butter and a little pepper.

Broiled Veal Cutlets

Cut the veal into slices a quarter of an inch thick, lay them on the gridiron with an equal number of slices of salt pork beside them. When cooked, put the veal on to the dish, butter, salt, and pepper it well, and lay the salt pork on the top of it. Veal needs to broil a good while, till it looks done when cut open.

Broiled Mutton Chops

These must be broiled over a quick fire and not cooked so much as veal.

Broiled Pork Steaks

These must be cut rather thin, broiled quick, and very thoroughly.

Beef Steaks

Those from the sirloin are best, those from the shoulder clod and round are not so good, but cheaper. Meat, if tough, is made more tender by pounding, if it is done very thoroughly, so as to break the fibres. Cut the steaks from half an inch to an inch thick. Broil on hot coals, and the quicker it is done the better. Ten or twelve minutes is enough time. Turn it four or five times, and when done put on butter, salt, and if you like pepper, and on both sides. Do not let your butter be turned to oil before putting it on. It is best to have beef tongs to turn beef, as pricking it lets out the juices. Often turning prevents the surface from hardening and cooks it more equally.

Beef Liver

Cut it in slices half an inch thick, pour boiling water on it, broil it with some thin slices of salt pork dipped in flour; then cut the liver and pork up into mouthfuls, put them in a frying-pan with a little butter, pepper, and salt, and stew them three or four minutes.

To Poach Eggs

Beat the eggs to a froth, pour them into a buttered tin, set it on coals, add salt and butter, stir till cooked, and then put it on to buttered toast.

To Boil Eggs

Put them into boiling water and allow three minutes if you wish only the white hardened, and five minutes if you wish them hard. Another and more delicate way is to break them into boiling water and let them boil three or four minutes. Then take them up with a skimmer, draining them well, and lay them on buttered toast, and spread a little butter on them. Another, and the best way to boil them when in the shell, is to pour on boiling water and let them stand five minutes. Then pour it off and pour on more boiling water, and let them stand five minutes longer. This is the way in which they are cooked in egg boilers, which are set upon the table.

A Salt Relish

Cut salt pork into thin slices, fry them till crisp, take them out and pour a little water to the fat, dredge in a little flour, and put in a little pepper. Then cut up the pork in mouthfuls and put to this gravy.

Egg Frizzle (very good)

Pour boiling water on to salt, smoked beef slivered. Pour off the water and then frizzle it in the frying-pan with butter. When done, break in two or three eggs, and stir it till the egg is hardened.

Frizzled Beef

Sliver smoked beef, pour on boiling water to freshen it, then pour off the water and frizzle the beef in butter.

Veal Cheese

Prepare equal quantities of sliced boiled veal and smoked tongue, boiled, skinned, and sliced. Pound each separately in a mortar, moistening with butter as you proceed. Then take a stone jar, or tin can, and mix them in it, so that it will, when cut, look mottled and variegated. Press it hard and pour on melted butter. Keep it covered in a dry place. To be used at tea in slices.

A Codfish Relish

Take thin slivers of codfish, lay them on hot coals, and when a yellowish brown, set them on the table.

Another Way

Sliver the codfish fine, pour on boiling water, drain it off, and add butter, and a very little pepper, and heat them three or four minutes, but do not let them fry.

Salt Herrings

Heat them on a gridiron, remove the skin, and then set them on the table.

French Vegetable Soup

Take a leg of lamb, of moderate size, and four quarts water. Of potatoes, carrots, cabbage, onions, tomatoes, and turnips take a tea-cup full of each, chopped fine. Salt and black pepper to your taste. Wash the lamb, and put it into the four quarts of cold water. When the scum rises take it off carefully with a skimmer. After having pared and chopped the vegetables, put them into the soup. Carrots require the most boiling, and should be put in first; onions require the least boiling, and are to be put in the last. This soup requires about three hours to boil.

Plain Calf’s Head Soup

Boil the head and feet in just water enough to cover them; when tender take out the bones, cut in small pieces, and season with marjoram, thyme, cloves, salt, and pepper. Put all into a pot, with the liquor, and four spoonfuls of thin batter, stew gently an hour, then, just as you take it up, add two or three glasses of Port wine, and the yolks of eggs boiled hard.

An Excellent Simple Mutton Soup

Put a piece of the fore quarter of mutton into salted water, enough to more than cover it, and simmer it slowly two hours. Then peel a dozen turnips, and six tomatoes, and quarter them, and boil them with the mutton till just tender enough to eat. Thicken the soup with pearl barley. Some add sliced tomatoes, or the juice and rind of a lemon. Use half a tea-cup of rice if you have no pearl barley.

Pea Soup

Soak dry peas over night, putting a quart of water to each quart of peas. Next morning boil them an hour in this water, and ten minutes before the hour expires put in a teaspoonful of saleratus. Change them to fresh water, put in a pound of salt pork, and boil three or four hours, till the peas are soft. Green peas need no soaking, and must boil not more than an hour. When taken up, add butter.

Portable Soup

Boil down the meat to a thick jelly, season it highly with salt, spices, and wine, or brandy; when cold, cut it in square inches, and dry them in the sun. Keep them in a tight tin vessel, and when you use them put a quart of boiling water to one, or two of the cakes, which should be one inch square, and the fourth of an inch thick. Vegetables can be added.

A Rich Mock Turtle Soup

Divide the lower from the upper part of the head, and put the head in a gallon of water, and boil till tender. Strain the liquor, and let it stand till the next day, and then take off the fat. Three quarters of an hour before serving it, hang it over the fire and season it with pepper, salt, mace, cloves, and sweet herbs, tied up in a small bag; add half a pint of rich gravy. Darken it with fried sugar, or browned flour; add the juice of two lemons, the yolks of eight eggs, boiled hard, and force meat balls. Just before taking up, pour in half a pint of wine.

Another Dry Pea Soup

Soak the peas over night. Put a pound and a half of split peas into four quarts of water, with roast beef, or mutton bones, and a ham bone, or slices of ham. Add two heads of celery and two onions, and stew slowly till the peas are soft. Then strain the peas through a coarse sieve, and put them back and season to your taste with pepper and salt. Let it boil one hour longer. When you have no celery use a teaspoonful of essence of celery, or a spoonful of celery vinegar.

Clam Soup

Wash a peck of clams and boil them in a pint of water, till those on the top open and they come out easily. Strain the liquor, and add a quart of milk. When it just boils thicken with two and a half spoonfuls of flour, worked into three of butter, with pepper, mace, and other spices to your taste. It is better without spice.

Oyster Soup

Put a gallon of water to a knuckle of veal, boil it to two quarts, strain and add the juice of the oysters you are to use. Add pepper and salt to your taste. Fifteen minutes before taking it up, put in the oysters. Ten minutes before taking up, put in eight rolled crackers, and after it stops boiling, add half a pint of milk.

Veal Soup

Take the knuckle and put it into salted water, enough to cover it, and also put in a pound of ham. When it is boiled very tender take up the meat, and strain the soup, and add a head of celery, cut small, one onion, a turnip and carrot sliced, four sliced tomatoes, a dozen corns of pepper, and salt to your taste. Thicken with three great spoonfuls of rice, or vermicelli, or a thin flour paste. Simmer it gently till all the vegetables are done. Almost any kind of meat can be made into soup, by taking the broth, and adding various kinds of seasoning and thickening; such as tomatoes, ochra, vermicelli, sweet herbs, and vegetables, and in such proportions as each one likes best. The preceding kinds of soup will be a guide as to proportions.

Macaroni Soup (Mrs. F.’s Receipt)

Take six pounds of beef, and put it into four quarts of water, with two onions, one carrot, one turnip, and a head of celery. Boil it down three or four hours slowly, till there is about two quarts of water, and let it cool. Next day take off the grease, without shaking the sediment, and pour it off into the kettle, half an hour before dinner (leaving the sediment out), and add salt to suit the taste, a pint of macaroni, broken into inch pieces, and a tablespoonful and a half of tomato catsup.

Southern Gumbo (Mrs. L.’s Receipt)

This is a favorite dish at the South and West, and is made in a variety of ways. The following is a very fine receipt, furnished by a lady, who has had an extensive opportunity for selection. Fry one chicken, when cut up, to a light brown, and also two slices of bacon. Pour on to them three quarts of boiling water. Add one onion and some sweet herbs, tied in a rag. Simmer them gently three hours and a half. Strain off the liquor, take off the fat, and then put the ham and chicken, cut into small pieces, into the liquor. Add half a tea-cup of _ochre_, cut up; if dry, the same quantity; also half a tea-cup of rice. Boil all half an hour, and just before serving add a glass of wine and a dozen oysters, with their juice. Ochre is a fine vegetable, especially for soups, and is easily cultivated. It is sliced and dried for soups in winter.